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#p1s

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Public
Alexey Skobkin

Кстати, если кто-то облизывался на принтеры Bambu Lab и срач с прошивкой не перебил желание продолжать облизываться, то возможно сейчас тот самый момент.

У них выходит новый принтер и их P1S работающий по системе CoreXY можно купить сильно дешевле - вплоть до 66к рублей в России за базовый набор и до 99к за комбо с AMS.

Сами принтеры правда хорошие - я бы только предложил если решите покупать перевести их в LAN режим и не накатывать обновления не прочитав чейнджлоги.

P.S. Только имейте в виду, что P1S будет громче, чем A1 если вы не будете его моддить.

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#3D#printing#DIY
Public
Tiacha

I may be closer to print farm status than I thought. But with all the printing I'm doing lately, it seemed logical to upgrade to get a bigger and faster printer to help speed up the long que of projects I have. Welcome home, Bambu P1S combo. I love you already. #3dprinting #BambuLab #p1s

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Dis

I doubt I am alone in debating building a lobotomy kit (or stripping it for a custom build) so that BTT announcement brings me ridiculous joy. I ran a bunch of their boards in my old Ender and they've been awesome.

If you were considering a lobotomy and want to go more hands-on than BTT, check out this project. They are building a Klipper swap-in for the P1 series. It is brand new and nowhere near feature complete, but proceeding super fast. (Technically, you could print with it today even with an AMS but it is a very young project. Don't hassle them about missing features.)

#3dprinting #bambu #bambulab #bigtreetech #p1s #klipper

GitHubGitHub - ChazLayyd/Bambu-Lab-Klipper-Conversion: Running Klipper on a Bambu Lab machine by replacing it's internal electronics with readily available open-source hardware.Running Klipper on a Bambu Lab machine by replacing it's internal electronics with readily available open-source hardware. - ChazLayyd/Bambu-Lab-Klipper-Conversion
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Public
www-gem

Already printed quite some stuff, and I'm shocked by the quality. Can't even see the layers. I still need to get used to the speed . I'm I'm scared as hell. Can't believe how the perfect amount of filament is deposited in the exact right spot while the nozzle is moving so fast that my eyes can barely follow it ! All of that without even tweaking anything yet.
Also unlocking klipper and using fluidd is a joy. The integration with #homeassistant is just what makes this printer the perfect addition to my tech team. Like most people I thought a lot between #k1c and #p1s from Bambu lab and mainly went with the former because of the open source environment. A good choice.

Public
JulianCalaby

I’m not an engineer, I’m not a 3D printing pro, and I have tried to stay away from that hobby, lest it consume my life. I did study engineering at university and got a degree, but I’ve never done professional engineering.

So when my partner was all “we should get a printer” I was all “let’s do the research”. So she did her usual 6 months of comparison shopping and decided that the Bambu Labs P1S with an AMS was the printer for us. Easy, user friendly, high quality, well made and well supported. I read the reviews too so when it arrived, I was *so* ready to be a Bambu Labs true believer, but the devil is in the details and holy heck there’s a lot of details.

#3dprinting#review#BambuLabs
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~/phranck :antifa:

Is there anyone here who has both a #BambuLab #X1C AND a #P1S?

I have noticed that the housings differ slightly in width and depth, where they should be the same size. Specifically, it concerns the recess at the top where the glass plate is inserted. The internal dimensions of my P1S are about 1.5 mm larger than those of the X1C.

Can anyone confirm this?

Please share, thank you. 🙏🏻
:BoostOK:

#3DPrinting#3DPrinter
Public
WokStation

Having a terrible time trying to print warhammer dreadnoughts. 9hr print failed on torso and legs - using waste from that for a wreckage object - but now a tiny bit on the latest plate is loose.
The bambu software let me tell the printer to stop trying JUST THAT PART and continue with the rest. Will print that one part later, more carefully. Even when it goes wrong this printer is awesome. Lol. #3dprinting #p1s

A screenshot from my phone showing the Bambu Handy app open. It is displaying a build plate of white objects. One object near the top left has red stripes through it. At the bottom is a checklist with names of all the parts. All of them are unchecked, with the exception of the red-striped object, the left elbow, which has an x next to it.
Public
Axel Rafn

After we got our #Bambu #P1S printer I have printed out more things than I did before we got it. Before this I had a #Ender3v2 and before that a #Monoprice printer that only printed PLA. But dear wholy, nothing has gone wrong, only prints that have failed were because of the design (pegs not joined with the body in one #Skadis thing I made).

So this is the feeling other 3D printing people have been feeling all the time? I love it!

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Dis

This was gonna be more eloquent before a neighbor/cop in uniform did his cop knock on my front door and hit the doorbell twice. To ask if my car was for sale. Like, essentially asking a favor.. Seriously? WHAM WHAM WHAM. No. It wasn't for sale before and it is even less for sale now. Go away. (He's mad at my custom Harris sign that calls his union's favorite spoiler candidate a jackass.)
Ahem. Anyway. Yesterday I finally got around to yanking #emqx out and putting #mosquitto back in. Grafana does fine, I don't miss the dashboards much.
Today I made it eavesdrop on my #Bambulab #P1S so that I could do automating without all the limitations of the onboard #MQTT.
If you're curious, it is pretty simple. Just don't write or subscribe anywhere it doesn't expect or it will kick you out. (Fill in your PIN and serial number, and you can fetch bridge_cafile from the printer with openssl.)

remote_username bblp
remote_password 1234654
bridge_cafile /mosquitto/panda/blcert.pem
bridge_insecure true
notifications_local_only true
try_private false
bridge_protocol_version mqttv311
topic device/01Pdfdfdfdffdfd/report in
topic device/01Pdfdfdfdffdfd/request out
Public
~/phranck :antifa:

For all users of #BambuLab printers who also use a #PandaTouch. This could be interesting.

I have developed a dock that is screwed to a #P1P or #P1S, “encloses” the original display and gives the Panda Touch a tilt mechanism like the one on the #X1C display.

#3DPrint #3DPrinting
// @3dprinting

makerworld.com/en/models/66992

makerworld.comTiltable Panda Touch Dock by LAYEREDThe IdeaThe Bambu Lab P1S (and the P1P, too) is a great 3D printer. Unfortunately, however, it has a very poor display. There are a few projects that aim to improve this, such as the open-source project xtouch or BigTreeTech's Panda Touch. This model is about the latter. BigTreeTech offers a display for Bambu Lab printers, which provides pretty much the same interface as an X1C. But it can do more. The Panda Touch can also operate several printers simultaneously, up to 10. Included is a very rudimentary dock that is supposed to be stuck on top of the printer, over the original display. I didn't like that. I wanted a version that worked similarly to the display on the X1C. It should be able to be swiveled. And the model I am offering here does exactly that.The ComponentsThe picture shows all the parts needed for this dock (Edit: I forgot to include four threaded inserts).Bill of MaterialsNamePiecesSourceThreaded insert M3 Short4To mount the magnets plate on the hinge plate.CNCKitchen StoreM4x35 hexagon socket screw2To mount the hinge plate on the dock base.• Amazon (DE)• Amazon (US)M4x12 countersunk hexagon socket head screw4To mount the magnets plate on the hinge plate.• Amazon (DE)• Amazon (US)M4 hexagon locknut2Needed for the 2 “M4x35 hexagon socket screw” mentioned above.• Amazon (DE)• Amazon (US)M4x9 washer2Needed for the 2 “M4x35 hexagon socket screw” mentioned above.• Amazon (DE)• Amazon (US, Carbon Steel)• Amazon (US, Nylon)M3x10 hexagon socket head machine screw2To mount the Dock Base on to the printer.• Amazon (DE)• Amazon (US)Neodymium magnets, 10x2 or 10x34Amazon (DE), Amazon (US)USB-A to USB-C charging cable (only two wires for 5V and GND are needed)1 Heat-shrinking tubing3• Amazon (DE)Panda Touch1Direct from BigTreeTech.If you have other sources where the above items may be cheaper, please let me know and I will add and/or update the information.The AssemblyFirst, you need to remove the original display from your printer. To do this, simply push it to the right (it may be a bit hard to move). Then you can easily move it away from the printer. Now remove the plug from the back of the display.Next you should prepare the USB-A to USB-C charging cable (as mentioned in the bill of material, a cable with only two wires for 5V and GND is good). Cut the cable at the USB-A end about 5-10cm from the plug. Depending on how long your cable is, you may need to trim the other part. Overall, a length of about 30cm should be sufficient. First, you have to prepare the dock base a little. The two lock nuts have yet to be pressed into the two hinge supports. It should then look like this.Then take the Dock Base, feed the display cable from the printer through the back and screw it to the printer with two M3x10 socket head screws. Now pass the part with the USB-C plug through the front of the printer (where the cable for the display comes out) and slide it to the right until it comes out again on the inside near the USB-A socket. The two pieces of cable must now be soldered together again. Important: Don't forget to pull the heat-shrink tubing over the wires and the cable beforehand! Now you can reconnect the original printer display to the cable and plug the display into the dock base.Now take the Hinge-Plate, thread the USB-C cable through from behind, attach it to the Dock-Base and secure it with the two M5x30 screws (don't forget the washers). Important: Do not overtighten the screws. The lock-nuts hold them in position and prevent them from loosening when the dock swings. Now you can prepare the Magnets-Plate. Press the two locking buttons through their holes... ...and glue the 4 magnets with superglue. Be sure to pay attention to the polarity of the magnets! It is very helpful to attach them directly to the Panda Touch beforehand and then insert them one by one, with the same side in the corresponding hole on the Magnets-Plate. Now you have to take the little PCB from the original Panda Touch Dock on which the USB-C socket is mounted. It is the circuit board with the 4 holes. On one side there is the USB-C socket, on the other side there are two sockets with pogo pins. Place it like the image shows. Now place the small cover plate on top of the circuit board. This is only used as an additional spacer so that the four screws are not pushed through on the front. Mount the USB-C board with the 4 original screws. Now you can connect the Magnets-Plate to the printer with the USB-C plug, and thread the cable through the pins on the Magnets-Plate as shown in the picture (or arrange it differently as you like 😃). This is for strain relief. If necessary, push any extra cable back into the printer and screw the Magnets-Plate on tightly using the 4 M4x12 countersunk hexagon socket head screws. Now you're done! You can plug the USB-A end of the cable into the socket inside the printer. 🖥️ Here you can play around with a live rendering of the model. The Final ProductLast but not least watch the dock in all its glory. 😎
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