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#TradClimbing

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Public
julian

Thinking of dabbling into trad, looking to build out a rack on an as-needed basis.

Climbing here mostly in Southern Ontario, so limestone blocks along the Niagara escarpment.

Some light research suggests I should:

  • favour passive pro over cams (slimestone, etc.)
  • consider offset nuts

... then the topics seem to always drift into a discussion about the merits of tricams lol

Looking at the dragons in size 2-4 to start.

Am I on the right track?

Also I'm legit afraid of using the #nuts or #rack tags.

#cams#stoppers#limestone
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devnull

Thinking of dabbling into trad, looking to build out a rack on an as-needed basis.

Climbing here mostly in Southern Ontario, so limestone blocks along the Niagara escarpment.

Some light research suggests I should:

  • favour passive pro over cams (slimestone, etc.)
  • Buy offset nuts

... Then the topics seem to always drift into a discussion about the merits of tricams lol

Looking at the dragons in size 2-4 to start.

Am I on the right track?

Also I'm legit afraid of using the #nuts or #rack tags.

#cams#climbing#limestone
Public
JCMcHammy

So, once again I find myself lacking actual mountains for #MountainsWrapped 2024, but I think @bergmeister 's year's summary of the outdoors idea is great, so Imma go with it again with some crag pics from the year that have some meaning for me. Sparser pickings for me this year as I haven't got much outdoor climbing in for various reasons; mostly the fabulous British summer, my fave climbing partner heartlessly pushing off to another country for a few months, and me doing a bunch of training courses and assessments. This year included finishing my RCI - which would have appeared in this post but for the minor problems of not having any pics, finishing it in the p**sing rain, and Sheepstor being about the least mountainous place I've climbed. So here goes; meaning as well as description in the AltText
#Climbing #Kalymnos #Dewerstone #WintoursLeap #Trowbarrow #LimestoneClimbing #TradClimbing #SportClimbing #GraniteClimbing

A part-sunlit, part-shadowed, grey, limestone face, slab at the bottom and top with a steep/overhanging section at the edge of a shallow overhanging cave. A climber in yellow and orange is high on the route, attempting to move over the lip at the top of the overhanging section. I don't get climbing in other countries much and in April I got to go back to the fabulous sport climbing paradise of Kalymnos. This route at Cave, Zizanie, was one of the hardest on the holiday and definitely the hardest I've fought to onsight a route. I was especially proud of myself for not giving up - I tried the pictured section probably over a dozen times, retreating to a semi-rest on the overhang with each failure until I finally worked it out. It felt like it took hours.
A climber in red and orange trad climbing in a limestone corner with a the belayer and someon watching at the bottom of the frame maybe 15m below. The climber is setting protection in a crack in the form of a tricam. So in June, frustrated with the weather and on a bit of a what-the-hell spur-of-the-moment decision, I signed up for a "Tricam workshop" run by Rise and Summit at Wintours Leap. This is Kevin Roet's pic as part of the marketing for the day (the event was sponsored by Camp) of me on Swallow's Nest on the fly wall. It's in here as both the site of my first actual trad fall (onto a brass offset at the start of the route - it held) and also the first route I've finished after getting a faceful of hail about 20m off the deck before the top. The rock was... rather slick after that! As a bonus, I also met a great guy who I ended up climbing with again later in the year. By the way, tricams are interesting and really rather versatile (Actually did a route next door using basically nothing else) . If you want to try them out, go seek out Kev Roet, who is an absolute tricam nut!
Looking up at a tall (30m+), striking, granite corner. On the left return of the corner is an arete with a shallower corner above a large, moss-covered block. a climber is bridging wide in the cornerabove the block, mostly obscured by the split legs. half ropes trail down from the climber thrugh other protection. So this one is in here for a few reasons: Firstly, The Dewerstone is a spectacular crag in a lovely setting and this was a extremely fun lead with a great partner (who also let me crash at his place for the night). If you haven't, I thoroughly recommend going. Also, this was the day after I passed my Foundation Coach qualification with the excellent Garland Mountaineering in Exeter - the afore-mentioned mate happens to live down there so I managed to turn it into a climbing trip too... The same thing I tried when I did my RCI in August, except that failed because of the sucky British weather (seriously? P**sing rain to the point of zero visibility in AUGUST???), so this kinda represents my RCI pass too.
An imposing, dark grey, limestone face, just off vertical and about 30m tall. The face is flat with a number of crack systems up it with mostly blank rock between. A climber in a red top and grey trousers is approx 1/4 of the way up the crack in the centre of the frame, reaching back to select protection from his harness. This is Trowbarrow quarry, not far from Kendal in the Lake District. It was my first time climbing in the Lakes and I didn't know at the time that this route - Jean Jeanie - is apparently quite famous; a number of people immediately spotted the route when they saw the pic. It's worth the fame - it's a great route! Personally, I found Harijan more challenging (you can see the top of it as the crack on the right - Harijan comes in diagonally under that from a corner further over), but this was a great lead and I loved every moment of it. Again, I managed to arrange a little climbing for the day after a training course - the time Development Coach, with the most excellent John Kettle (hey, if you want to be better at coaching learn from someone who's REALLY good at it, right?) so this is a reminder to myself to try to apply everything I learnt.
Public
JCMcHammy

Hardest lead of the day for me. Another epic line, if not quite as striking as the apparently famous Jean Jeanie just to the left. Definitely tougher, despite being the same grade on paper. Such an impressive face of rock and so many interesting lines up it. Weirdly, I almost found this harder than the HVS on the diagonal crack just above, which I managed to second clean despite a couple of awkward gear retrievals.
#Climbing #TradClimbing #ClimbingIsMyPassion #Kendal #LakeDistrict #LimestoneClimbing #TrowbarrowQuarry

Public
JCMcHammy

Back from a trip to the Lake District. On the negative side, I didn't get three days climbing... On the super-positive side, I did get two days of Mountain Training Development Coach training with the ever-excellent John Kettle PLUS a day of climbing at Trowbarrow Quarry. As a bonus, also a nice stay at Lyndhurst Guest House in Kendal and a play at KendalWall on their long autobelays.
#MountainTraining #Climbing #TradClimbing #Coaching #ClimbingIsMyPassion #Kendal #LakeDistrict #LimestoneClimbing

A compact and Bijou Bed & Breakfast room in Kendal. Clean and neat with a bathroom door with coathooks to the left, a red armchair in the far right corner next to a refreshment tray on a low unit below a mirror. The view is out of a window to a tree, river and grey day. Next to the windows is, weidly, a tissue arrangement in a cosy and a picture.
Trad climber in a red top with a sling across chooses gear while perched about1/4 of way up a grey limestone face about 20-25m tall. The climber is following a fractured, mostly vertical crack that runs all the way up the nearly vertical face.
The main parts of Trowbarrow Quarry. Imposing, grey limestone crag including the flat-looking large face where the climber pic is. De-leaved trees in the foreground barely obscure the face.
The excellent Mr. Kettle standing beside a slide entitled "Variety is the spice of life" with a graph on, explaining how different methods of learning affect skill learning rate and skill retention rate.
Public
JCMcHammy

Well, it wasn't sport ALL day; Jeremy decided to "try" an E1 trad route in my absolute favourite style (/sarc). Time to see if my occasional and minimal practice has supplied me with ANY jamming skills at all... For those who don't speak UK trad, 5c English Technical is maybe 6a sport - assuming you can jam! This felt ooooo 6c at least 😂
#Climbing #TradClimbing #LimestoneClimbing #WyeValleyClimbing #Wyndcliffe #OutdoorClimbing #TopRoping

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Jonathan Pulfer

I spent this last week in North Wales on a lead #climbing course at Plas Y Brenin. Although it was late in the year the course instructor managed to get us climbing outside every day. We explored many of the interesting crags available including the sea cliffs.

It was a great course and Peter was a great guide and instructor. I’ve learned loads and am looking forwards to getting out next year exploring more of the amazing #tradclimbing places in North Wales.

A view from the base of the crag at Holyhead mountain. The light grey rock of the crag frames the left side of the view. The mountain slope is covered with dark brown fauna with the surface falling away gradually into the distance where a patch of green lowland separates the high ground from the sea. Patches of blue sky are visible through white fluffy clouds.
The top of a sea cliffs route near Rhoscolyn. A gully in the light grey rock opens out to a view over the beautiful light turquoise sea.
A view across a small bay to a sea cliff of light greys and browns. The light turquoise sea laps gently at the base of the crag. Behind the cliff, another promontory of land fills the distant horizon.
A view out from the top of a crag on the high tier at Tremadog. Bright green fields form a patchwork surface edged with trees which stretches across to a bay in the distance.
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Eric Daryl Meyer

Climbing with a buddy this evening. Mixed bag for me. Sent this juggy overhung 5.10a on top rope (after an impressive lead by my friend). But then got really in my head on a 5.8 trad crack on lead. Fell onto a nut that I’d placed and it held… so I guess that’s a positive. But, didn’t feel great overall on that route.
#climbing #TradClimbing #rocks

A granite cliff fills the right side of the frame while a large tree fills the left. There is a red line drawn up the cliff face marking a climbing route.
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